Written by Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Annette Thompson
In early fall, spring flowering bulbs can be fertilized and planted. Now is also a good time for pansies and other winter flowering plants to be added to the garden for some “winter color”.
Soil samples can still be submitted now in preparation for spring planting. Contact your local extension office for information and boxes. There is no fee for samples submitted from April to November. From December to March, there is a $4 fee/box.
Fall is often a time many gardeners mulch their beds. Mulching can be done now but the best time is early to mid spring. Read more: Protect Your Plants With Mulch
As leaves fall, and are often used as mulch, avoid piling the raked or mowed leaves around tree trunks. This “volcano” of leaves/mulch can cause damage to the bark and allow a nice home for voles and mice, which can also lead to bark damage. Keep mulch a least 6 inches away from the trunk and/or 6-12 inches beyond the drip line.
With fall/winter approaching, consider supporting wildlife such as birds and insects by leaving perennial seed heads such as coneflower, Joe Pye weed, blackeyed Susan, poppies and asters as a food source and as a wildlife habitat.
Always clean up diseased plants, slimy or mushy foliage and plants that have fallen or are matted down.
With leaves beginning to fall, it is a good time to consider starting a compost pile.
Composting has many benefits to home gardeners. The following link from NC State offers information on the benefits of composting and great tips on starting a compost pile.
Fall/winter is a good time to spend some time cleaning and repairing or replacing gardening tools and containers. Tools and containers can harbor plant pathogens from one season to the next. As is often the case, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Prevent the spread of disease between plants by thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting your tools, equipment and gardening implements.
A common question often asked by home gardeners is how/when to prune hydrangeas. Here is a quick guide for pruning hydrangeas by species.- Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) – Mophead & Lacecap
- When to prune: July – August, immediately after flowering.
- Why: Blooms on old wood (last year’s growth), so pruning too late removes next year’s buds.
- Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
- When to prune: July – August, after flowering.
- Why: Blooms on old wood; prune after flowering to shape the plant.
- Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) – Limelight, Tardiva, PeeGee
- When to prune: Late winter – early spring (February – March).
- Why: Blooms on new wood (current season’s growth); prune before new growth starts.
- Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) – Annabelle, Incrediball
- When to prune: Late winter – early spring (February – March).
- Why: Blooms on new wood; prune hard (back to 6-12 inches) for larger blooms.
- Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris)
- When to prune: After flowering (June – July).
- Why: Blooms on old wood; only prune to control size.
